##Molise

This small, sparsely populated region shares a gastronomic bond with the Abruzzi, its historical partner to the north, though the proximity of Apulia and Campania lend its foods a southern accent. It's also nice to know that Molise in its unassuming way harbors culinary secrets of its own.

The region is noted for robust fare of authentically rustic goodness, specialties of the towns and villages that grace the hillsides from the short strip of Adriatic coast to the rugged heights of the Apennines, home of the ancient Samnite tribes.

In the hills of Molise, lamb, kid and mutton are popular, along with pork for sausages, salame and soppressata, sometimes preserved in terra-cotta vases under fine local olive oil. Prosciutto may be salt cured, though it is also smoked--rare in Italy. Prominent cheeses are caciocavallo from the town of Agnone, pecorino and scamorza. Part of the Caciocavallo Silano is in Molise.

The port of Termoli provides triglie di scoglio (red mullet, base of a tasty soup), fresh anchovies, squid, crabs, clams and sea snails.

Molise produces quantities of dried pasta, though in country homes women still often roll the dough by hand. Specialties include sagne (lasagne), laganelle (tagliatelle), crejoli (similar to the Abruzzi's maccheroni alla chitarra) and recchietelle (orecchiette). Pasta is often served with ragout of lamb and pork, invariably with diavolillo (chili pepper), and a grating of sharply flavored pecorino cheese.

The tomato, fresh or preserved, is omnipresent in Molise, as are beans and artichokes. Campobasso is noted for giant white celery. The region also produces fine extra virgin olive oil.

Polenta is as popular as pasta in places. Cornmeal is cooked in a mush, though the flour may also be used for a type of pizza. Molise has a tasty array of cakes, biscuits and pastries, and one of the most bizarre of desserts: blood sausage with chocolate and pine nuts.

Regional SpecialitIes:

OLIVE OILS

• Molise •

FRESH & CURED MEATS

• Salamini italiani alla cacciatora •

• Vitellone Bianco dell'Appennino Centrale •

CHEESES

• Caciocavallo Silano DOP •

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